Changing human hair fibre colour and shape from the follicle.

INTRODUCTION: Natural hair curvature and colour are genetically determined human traits, that we intentionally change by applying thermal and chemical treatments to the fibre. Presently, those cosmetic methodologies act externally and their recurrent use is quite detrimental to hair fibre quality and even to our health. OBJECTIVES: This work represents a disruptive concept to modify natural hair colour and curvature. We aim to model the fibre phenotype as it is actively produced in the follicle through the topical delivery of specific bioactive molecules to the scalp. METHODS: Transcriptome differences between curly and straight hairs were identified by microarray. In scalp samples, the most variable transcripts were mapped by in situ hybridization. Then, by using appropriate cellular models, we screened a chemical library of 1200 generic drugs, searching for molecules that could lead to changes in either fibre colour or curvature. A pilot-scale, single-centre, investigator-initiated, prospective, blind, bilateral (split-scalp) placebo-controlled clinical study with the intervention of cosmetics was conducted to obtain a proof of concept (RNEC n.92938). RESULTS: We found 85 genes transcribed significantly different between curly and straight hair, not previously associated with this human trait. Next, we mapped some of the most variable genes to the inner root sheath of follicles, reinforcing the role of this cell layer in fibre shape moulding. From the drug library screening, we selected 3 and 4 hits as modulators of melanin synthesis and gene transcription, respectively, to be further tested in 33 volunteers. The intentional specific hair change occurred: 8 of 14 volunteers exhibited colour changes, and 16 of 19 volunteers presented curvature modifications, by the end of the study. CONCLUSION: The promising results obtained are the first step towards future cosmetics, complementary or alternative to current methodologies, taking hair styling to a new level: changing hair from the inside out.

A Comprehensive Review of Mammalian Pigmentation: Paving the Way for Innovative Hair Colour-Changing Cosmetics.

The natural colour of hair shafts is formed at the bulb of hair follicles, and it is coupled to the hair growth cycle. Three critical processes must happen for efficient pigmentation: (1) melanosome biogenesis in neural crest-derived melanocytes, (2) the biochemical synthesis of melanins (melanogenesis) inside melanosomes, and (3) the transfer of melanin granules to surrounding pre-cortical keratinocytes for their incorporation into nascent hair fibres. All these steps are under complex genetic control. The array of natural hair colour shades are ascribed to polymorphisms in several pigmentary genes. A myriad of factors acting via autocrine, paracrine, and endocrine mechanisms also contributes for hair colour diversity. Given the enormous social and cosmetic importance attributed to hair colour, hair dyeing is today a common practice. Nonetheless, the adverse effects of the long-term usage of such cosmetic procedures demand the development of new methods for colour change. In this context, case reports of hair lightening, darkening and repigmentation as a side-effect of the therapeutic usage of many drugs substantiate the possibility to tune hair colour by interfering with the biology of follicular pigmentary units. By scrutinizing mammalian pigmentation, this review pinpoints key targetable processes for the development of innovative cosmetics that can safely change the hair colour from the inside out.

Acetylation and phosphorylation processes modulate Tau's binding to microtubules: A molecular dynamics study.

The microtubule-associated protein Tau has its normal function impaired when undergoing post-translational modifications. In this work, molecular modelling techniques were used to infer the effects of acetylation and phosphorylation in Tau's overall conformation, electrostatics, and interactions, but mostly in Tau's ability to bind microtubules. Reported harmful Lys sites were mutated by its acetylated form, generating eight different acetylated Tau (aTau) analogues. Similarly, phosphorylation sites found in normal brains and in Alzheimer's lesioned brains were considered to design phosphorylated Tau (pTau) analogues. All these designed variants were evaluated in intracellular fluid and near a microtubule (MT) model. Our in silico findings demonstrated that the electrostatic changes, due to the absence of positive Lys' charges in acetylation cases, or the increasingly negative charge in the phosphorylated forms, hamper the association to the MT tubulins in most cases. Post-translational modifications also pose very distinct conformations to the ones described for native Tau, which hinders the microtubule-binding region (MTBR) and turns difficult the expected binding. Our study elucidates important molecular processes behind Tau abnormal function which can inspire novel therapeutics to address Alzheimer's disease.

Mapping hair follicle-targeted delivery by particle systems: What has science accomplished so far?

The importance of the hair follicle in the process of cutaneous drug penetration has been established since this skin appendage was recognized as an entry point for topically applied substances. A comprehensive review on the hair follicle as a target per se is here provided, exploring the current knowledge on both targeted regions and delivery systems that take advantage of this permeation route. The follicular penetration is a complex process, whose effectiveness and efficiency strongly depends on a diversity of different factors including follicular density and size, activity status of hair follicles and physicochemical properties of the topically applied substances. Nanocarriers represent a heterogeneous assembly of molecules organized into particles and they have revolutionized drug delivery in several areas of medicine, pharmacology and cosmetics. As they possess an inherent ability to use the follicular route, they are reviewed here having in perspective the hair follicle zones that they are able to reach as reported. In this way, a follicular road map for the different delivery systems was compiled to assist as a guiding tool for those that have interest in the development and/or application of such delivery systems for hair and skin treatment or care.

Comparing the delivery to the hair bulb of two fluorescent molecules of distinct hydrophilicities by different nanoparticles and a serum formulation.

The follicular route is an important drug penetration pathway in any topical application, either concerning dermatological and cosmetic skin treatments or any transdermal administration regimen. Efficient transport into follicles will depend on drug inherent properties but also on the chosen vehicle. The main study goal was to compare several systems for the delivery to the hair bulb of two fluorescent molecules of different water affinities: the hydrophobic Nile Red and the quite similar but hydrophilic Nile Blue. Three common nanoparticle types were compared in terms of encapsulation efficiency and stability: liposomes, ethosomes and polymeric nanoparticles. A liquid serum-like formulation was also developed, adjusting the final ethanol amount to the type of dye to be solubilized. Then, this formulation and the nanoparticle systems that successfully passed characterization and stability stages were further studied on their ability to reach the bulb. The serum formulation was able to deliver, both drug models, to deeper follicular regions than nanoparticles. Attending to the envisioned zone target of the follicle, the simplest approach proved to be the best choice from all the systems tested in this work. Nonetheless, nanocarriers and the inherent complexity of their manufacturing processes may be justified under very specific requirements.

The Structural Properties of Odorants Modulate Their Association to Human Odorant Binding Protein.

The binding of known odorant molecules to the human odorant-binding protein (hOBP) was evaluated in silico. Docking experiments elucidate the preferable binding site and binding affinity of odorant molecules to hOBP. The physicochemical properties molecular weight (MW), vapor pressure (Vp), hydrophobicity level (logP), number of double bonds (NºDB), degree of unsaturation (DoU) and the chemical classification, were selected for the study of odorant modulation. Here, these properties were analyzed concerning 30 pleasant and 30 unpleasant odorants, chosen to represent a wide variety of compounds and to determine their influence on the binding energy to hOBP. Our findings indicate that MW, logP and Vp are the most important odorant variables, directly correlated to odorant-binding energies (DGbinding) towards hOBP. Understanding how the odorants behave when complexed with the OBP in human olfaction opens new possibilities for the development of future biotechnological applications, including sensory devices, medical diagnosis, among others.

Cyclosporin A-loaded poly(d,l-lactide) nanoparticles: a promising tool for treating alopecia.

Background: Alopecia treatments are scarce and lack efficacy. Cyclosporin A (CsA) has hair growth-inducing properties but its poor cutaneous absorption undermines its use in topical treatments. Aim: Development of a new potential topical treatment of alopecia with CsA. Materials & methods: CsA-loaded poly(d,l-lactide) (PLA) nanoparticles were obtained and characterized. Skin permeation was evaluated in ex vivo porcine skin. Results: Nanoparticles with good physicochemical stability increased CsA skin permeation/hair follicles accumulation, compared with a noncolloidal formulation. CsA biocompatibility in NCTC2455 keratinocytes (reference skin cell line) was clearly improved when encapsulated in PLA nanoparticles. Conclusion: This work fosters further in vivo investigation of CsA-loaded PLA nanoparticles as a promising new strategy to treat alopecia, a very traumatic, possibly autoimmune, disease.

Design of a chromogenic substrate for elastase based on split GFP system-Proof of concept for colour switch sensors.

Recent studies have demonstrated that human neutrophil elastase (HNE) can be used as marker for inflammation/infection of chronic wounds since it was found to be present in high concentration in exudate collected from chronic wounds. Biosensors used in wound care benefit from a chromogenic signalling due to the readiness of signal interpretation, but the most common use faint yellow chromogenic molecules such as p-nitroaniline (pNa). In addition, if to be converted into smart dressings, the colour of the detection system should not be masked by the exudate's colour. In this work, we designed a chromogenic substrate for HNE aiming to be incorporated in a smart dressing as a colour switch sensor. The substrate was developed using the GFP-like chromoprotein ultramarine (UM), following the split GFP technology. The cleavage sequence for HNE (Ala-Ala-Pro-Val) was embedded into the sensing moiety of the substrate corresponding to the 11th ß-sheet. In the presence of HNE, the 11th ß-sheet is able to interact to the signalling moiety composed of the ß1-ß10 incomplete barrel, allowing the re-establishment of the chromophore environment and, hence, the colour production. Structural homology and molecular dynamics simulations were conducted to aid on the disclosure of the structural changes that are the base of the mechanism of action of this HNE switch substrate. Our findings explore the possible application of GFP-like chromogenic sensors in point-of-care devices for the evaluation of the wounds status, representing a major step in the medical field.

Peptide-protein interactions within human hair keratins.

We selected 1235 decapeptides from human hair proteins encoded by human genes of keratins and keratin associated proteins. The peptides were linked to glass arrays and screened for their affinity towards a solution of human hair extracted keratin fraction. Based on the physicochemical properties of the peptides, ten variables were studied: content of different types of amino acid side chains (cysteine, hydrophobic, polar, basic, acidic, aromatic rings, amide, alcohol side chains), isoelectric point, and net charge. We found differences statistically significant on the binding affinity of peptides based on their content of cysteine, hydrophobic and polar amino acids, mainly containing alcohols. These results point to the formation of hydrophobic interactions and disulfide bonds between small peptides and human hair keratins as the main driving forces for the interaction of possible cosmetic peptides, namely designed to strength human hair. As so, our results enlighten the nature of the interaction of keratin based materials with human hair, which are claimed to enhance hair fiber strength, and enable a more directed and sustained hair care peptide design.

Fluorescent quantification of melanin.

Melanin quantification is reportedly performed by absorption spectroscopy, commonly at 405 nm. Here, we propose the implementation of fluorescence spectroscopy for melanin assessment. In a typical in vitro assay to assess melanin production in response to an external stimulus, absorption spectroscopy clearly overvalues melanin content. This method is also incapable of distinguishing non-melanotic/amelanotic control cells from those that are actually capable of performing melanogenesis. Therefore, fluorescence spectroscopy is the best method for melanin quantification as it proved to be highly specific and accurate, detecting even small variations in the synthesis of melanin. This method can also be applied to the quantification of melanin in more complex biological matrices like zebrafish embryos and human hair.

A biologically active delivery material with dried-rehydrated vesicles containing the anti-inflammatory diclofenac for potential wound healing.

Chronic wounds usually remain in the inflammatory phase of the healing process during several months or even years. Hence, a continuous research has been resulting in the development of wound dressings with improved performance. Herein, we report a delivery system for cutaneous wound healing, consisting of a textile material (non-woven gauzes) covered with lipidic vesicles containing diclofenac, a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID). This study also aims to compare the entrapment efficiency data with previous works and confirm that this parameter and drug amount are not directly correlated. A method of dehydration-rehydration of the liposomes presenting different sizes and lamellarities was used to assess the best conditions to attain the highest drug entrapment efficiency. Optimum conditions for the NSAID release were achieved with high phospholipid concentrations and dried-rehydrated vesicles (DRVs) prepared from multilamellar liposomes (MLVs). A chemical activation of the gauzes was performed to enhance the vesicles attachment, also contributing to a higher drug amount in the surrounding media. In spite of the entrapment efficiency being lower comparatively with other values presented by us previously, the diclofenac concentration was considerably higher in this formulation. Entrapment efficiency is, therefore, not sufficient per se to define the real amount of drug contained in the formulation. The cytocompatibility assessment in human skin fibroblasts showed that DRVs from MLVs and DRVs from large unilamellar liposomes (LUVs) with less than 750 µM of egg-yolk phosphatidylcholine (EPC), containing diclofenac, were not cytotoxic after 72 h of contact, greatly implying potential for their application in the chronic wounds healing.

Hair Coloration by Gene Regulation: Fact or Fiction?

The unravelling of hair pigmentation genetics and robust delivery systems to the hair follicle (HF) will allow the development of a new class of colouring products. The challenge will be changing hair colour from inside out by safely regulating the activity of target genes through the specific delivery of synthetic/natural compounds, proteins, genes, or small RNAs.

Assessment of a Protease Inhibitor Peptide for Anti-Ageing.

Ageing and skin exposure to UV radiation induces production and activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and human neutrophil elastase (HNE). These enzymes are known to break down the extracellular matrix (ECM) which leads to wrinkle formation. Here, we demonstrated the potential of a solid-in-oil nanodispersion containing a competitive inhibitor peptide of HNE mixed with hyaluronic acid (HA), displaying 158 nm of mean diameter, to protect the skin against the ageing effects. Western blot analysis demonstrated that activation of MMP-1 in fibroblasts by HNE treatment is inhibited by the solid-in-oil nanodispersion containing the peptide and HA. The results clearly demonstrate that solid-in-oil nanodispersion containing the HNE inhibitor peptide is a promising strategy for anti-ageing effects. This effect can be seen particularly by ECM regulation by affecting fibroblasts. The formulation also enhances the formation of thicker bundles of actin filaments.

Enzymatic synthesis of poly(catechin)-antibiotic conjugates: an antimicrobial approach for indwelling catheters.

Biofilm formation in urinary indwelling catheters is one of the most critical issues that patients face. Catheters were coated with poly(catechin)-antibiotic conjugates with enhanced antimicrobial properties. Catechin was conjugated with two antibiotics, namely trimethoprim (TMP) and sulfamethoxazole (SMZ) via activation with N,N'-disuccinimidyl carbonate (DSC) and subsequent coupling to molecules containing α-amine moieties. Silicone and polyurethane catheters were functionalized in situ through laccase oxidation of catechin-antibiotic conjugates. Four antimicrobial coatings were produced, namely with poly(catechin), poly(catechin)-TMP, poly(catechin)-SMZ and poly(catechin)-TMP-SMZ. The bacterial adhesion reduction was tested on the functionalized devices using gram-negative and gram-positive strains. The most significant reduction in adhesion was observed with poly(catechin)-TMP (gram-negative -85 % and gram-positive -87 %) and with poly(catechin)-TMP-SMZ (gram-negative -85 % and gram-positive -91 %). The cytotoxicity to mammalian cells was tested by indirect contact for 5 days and revealed that all the tested coatings supported more than 90 % of viable cells. A promising approach for the increase of the indwelling catheter lifespan was developed aiming to reduce catheter-associated chronic infections.

Design of novel BSA/hyaluronic acid nanodispersions for transdermal pharma purposes.

A novel transdermal hyaluronic acid (HA) conjugated with bovine serum albumin (BSA) was developed in the form of solid-in-oil (S/O) nanodispersion (129.7 nm mean diameter). Ex vivo skin penetration analysis by fluorescence and confocal observation of histological skin sections revealed the ability of BSA/HA nanodispersions to cross the stratum corneum and penetrate into the dermis. Furthermore, no significant toxicity was found in fibroblast and keratinocyte cells in vitro. These results proved the potential of the developed nanodispersion for transdermal delivery of hyaluronic acid constituting a high value to biopharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.

Odorant binding proteins: a biotechnological tool for odour control.

The application of an odorant binding protein for odour control and fragrance delayed release from a textile surface was first explored in this work. Pig OBP-1 gene was cloned and expressed in Escherichia coli, and the purified protein was biochemically characterized. The IC50 values (concentrations of competitor that caused a decay of fluorescence to half-maximal intensity) were determined for four distinct fragrances, namely, citronellol, benzyl benzoate, citronellyl valerate and ethyl valerate. The results showed a strong binding of citronellyl valerate, citronellol and benzyl benzoate to the recombinant protein, while ethyl valerate displayed weaker binding. Cationized cotton substrates were coated with porcine odorant binding protein and tested for their capacity to retain citronellol and to mask the smell of cigarette smoke. The immobilized protein delayed the release of citronellol when compared to the untreated cotton. According to a blind evaluation of 30 assessors, the smell of cigarette smoke, trapped onto the fabrics' surface, was successfully attenuated by porcine odorant binding protein (more than 60 % identified the weakest smell intensity after protein exposure compared to ß-cyclodextrin-treated and untreated cotton fabrics). This work demonstrated that porcine odorant binding protein can be an efficient solution to prevent and/or remove unpleasant odours trapped on the large surface of textiles. Its intrinsic properties make odorant binding proteins excellent candidates for controlled release systems which constitute a new application for this class of proteins.

Production of heterologous cutinases by E. coli and improved enzyme formulation for application on plastic degradation

Background: The hydrolytic action of cutinases has been applied to the degradation of plastics. Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) have long half-life which constitutes a major problem for their treatment as urban solid residues. The aim of this work was to characterize and to improve stable the enzyme to optimize the process of degradation using enzymatic hydrolysis of PET by recombinant cutinases. Results: The wild type form of cutinase from Fusarium solani pisi and its C-terminal fusion to cellulose binding domain N1 from Cellulomonas fimi were produced by genetically modified Escherichia coli. The maximum activity of cutinases produced in Lactose Broth in the presence of ampicillin and isopropyl β-D-1-thiogalactopyranoside (IPTG) was 1.4 IU/mL. Both cutinases had an optimum pH around 7.0 and they were stable between 30 and 50ºC during 90 min. The addition of glycerol, PEG-200 and (NH4)2SO4 to the metabolic liquid, concentrated by ultra filtration, stabilized the activity during 60 days at 28ºC. The treatment of PET with cutinases during 48 hrs led to maxima weight loss of 0.90%. Conclusions: Recombinant microbial cutinases may present advantages in the treatment of poly(ethylene terephthalate) PET through enzymatic treatments.

The activity of LE10 peptide on biological membranes using molecular dynamics, in vitro and in vivo studies.

Cell-penetrating peptides (CPPs) and antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) are generally defined as small cationic peptides with the ability to interact with lipidic membranes, in a process driven by electrostatic and hydrophobic processes. The interaction with CPPs is known to lead to its translocation across the membrane, while with AMPs lead to membrane damage. Here we present one synthetic anionic peptide, LE10 (LELELELELELELELELELE), which strongly interacts with model membranes, showing properties of CPPs (translocation through lipidic membranes on a mechanism usually described for cationic CPPs) and AMPs (membrane disruption) in molecular dynamic studies, experimental studies with liposomes and mammalian cells in vitro. Based on the LE10 properties here demonstrated, small modifications in its structure could make it a very promising tool for drug delivery.

Chitosan-lignosulfonates sono-chemically prepared nanoparticles: characterisation and potential applications.

Due to their recognised properties of biocompatibility, biodegradability and sustainability, chitosan nanocarriers have been successfully used as new delivery systems. In this work, nanoparticles combining chitosan and lignosulfonates were developed for the first time for cosmetic and biomedical applications. The ability of lignosulfonates to act as a counter polyion for stabilisation of chitosan particles, generated using high intensity ultrasound, was investigated. Several conditions for particles preparation were tested and optimised and the resulting nanoparticles were comprehensively characterised by measuring particle size, zeta potential and polydispersity index. The pH of chitosan solution, sonication time and the presence of an adequate surfactant, poloxamer 407, were determinant factors on the development of smaller particles with low polydispersity index (an average particle size of 230 nm was obtained at pH 5 after 8 min of sonication). The beneficial effects of lignosulfonates complex on chitosan nanoparticles were further characterised. Greater stability to lysozyme degradation, biocompatibility with human cells and antimicrobial activity was found upon lignosulfonates incorporation into chitosan nanoparticles. Furthermore, these particles were able to incorporate a hydrophilic model protein - RNase A. A burst release was observed when nanoparticles were loaded with low amount of protein while with high protein content, a sustained release was found, suggesting that the protein cargo maybe loaded both at the surface as in the bulk of the particle, depending on the concentration of drug incorporated.

Molecular recognition of esterase plays a major role on the removal of fatty soils during detergency.

In this work it is describe for the first time, the use of an esterase with null activity (Tfu_0883 bacterial cutinase from Thermobifida fusca) on the removal of fat from the surface of a cotton substrate. Similar levels of fat removal were found for both null and wild-type proteins, despite that only wild type protein yielded fatty acids. Our results show that molecular recognition of esterase plays a major role on the removal of fatty soils, allowing important guidelines for the design of detergent enzymes. Furthermore, the advantage of using null esterase enzymes lies in the avoidance of the rancid smell of short chained fatty acids, typical after esterase treatment.